Smoke Alarms

Smoke alarm

Smoke alarms have contributed to a 50 percent decrease   in fire deaths since the 1970s according to the National Fire Protection Association. Two types of smoke alarms are common on the market, photoelectric and ionization. Sensors on each detect fires differently.

Photoelectric detectors use a light-emitting diode and a sensor. When smoke particles scatter the light beam, the detector goes off. This type of alarm goes off faster during a slow-burning, low-heat, smoky fire like those resulting from a dropped cigarette.

Ionization smoke alarms are designed to detect a flaming, fast-moving fire that creates a lot of heat. A small amount of radioactivity is used to ionize air in a chamber. The ionized air creates conductivity between electrodes.

Because it’s impossible to predict what type of fire may occur, it is a good idea to have both types of alarms in the house. Remember, ionization alarms will detect kitchen fires, one of the most common types of fires, faster. The Underwriters Laboratories recommends installing the dual-technology smoke alarms. Interconnecting all the alarms so that if one goes off they all go off may also help to alert family members faster.

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RADON IS A REAL ISSUE IN THE ROCHESTER, NY AREA

https://www.npiweb.com/sansone

Radon gas is a toxic gas that seeps into homes through the foundations. And it doesn’t matter if your home is built on a basement, crawlspace or a slab, this deadly gas can seep in and it doesn’t matter if it’s brand new construction or a 50 year old home.

It’s estimated that Radon Gas kills 24,000 Americans each and every year. As a matter of fact, Radon Gas is the second leading cause of lung cancer, only second to cigarette smoking.

The good news is that Radon Gas can be detected with a simple test and if the home you’re purchasing has elevated levels of Radon Gas, it can be easily fixed. The key to the issue is Getting A Radon Test. Then you know if the problem exists and if so, to what degree.

Please know that I personally would not live in a home in this area that had not been tested for Radon Gas! National Property Inspection conducts radon tests for home buyers, home sellers and homeowners in the Greater Rochester, NY area.

To learn more about Radon Gas check out the video below.

https://www.npiweb.com/sansone

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HOUSING DATA

Girl Holding Sold Sign

In the last 32 years, the U.S. population has shifted south and west. People continue to flow from rural to urban areas, the number of people living in each single-family residence is declining and average living space is increasing. These are some of the trends outlined in the report 32 Years of Housing Data released by HUD’s office of Policy Development and Research. The report looks at housing trends from 1973-2005.

According to the report:

• Floor plans for homes are larger, but lot size is holding steady. The median square footage of a single-family detached home was 1,610 square feet in 1985 and 1,774 square feet in 2005. The median lot size remained 0.36 of an acre over the same time period.
• Homeownership rates rose from 64.4 percent to 68.8 percent.
• In 1973, approximately 2 out of 3 homes were occupied by married couples. In 2005, this ratio fell to 1 out of every 2.
• Air conditioning became standard during the three decades in the study. The number of year-round residences without air-conditioning declined from 53 percent to 13 percent.

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DOORS

Doors

The purpose of a door is to provide security, comfort and privacy. Doors can be made out of wood, metal, vinyl or hardboard and are rated for either interior or exterior use. Some exterior doors are constructed with an insulated core to improve energy efficiency. Other features may include decorative trim, a window or a peep hole.

To operate effectively, doors must open and close smoothly, according to their design. Many doors are hinged on one side and either swing open 90 degrees or 180 degrees (a half circle). Sliding doors and pocket doors move on tracks. French doors are two hinged doors that meet in the middle. True French doors have no framing member in the middle, but connect to one another.

Inspecting the doors on a property can sometimes provide clues to structural problems or merely minor deficiencies that are easily fixed. Doors should be checked to determine if they open and close properly, if the locking mechanisms work and if they have been hung in appropriate locations. Doors should not block light switches or swing open and closed on their own unless, like many storm doors, they are designed to be self-closing. Exterior doors should always be hinged on the inside.

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MAINTENANCE MATTERS

Window Caulking

When the price of heating fuel or electricity goes up, it means higher bills at home to keep temperatures comfortable. If heating costs are a concern, look at more than just the setting on the thermostat. Heat produced in the home can be lost if the home isn’t sealed or insulated properly.

All openings in the walls, including windows and doors, can bring cold air into the home and pull warm air out. Sealing these areas with caulk or weather stripping can help prevent this problem. To test for weak areas, visually inspect the exterior of windows and doors. Focus on the area between the window trim and the exterior cladding of the home. Any cracked or missing sealant should be repaired.

Inside, use a candle or a smoke (incense) stick to check for drafty windows and doors. Hold a lit candle close to the window and door seams. A flame that bends, flickers or goes out could be a sign of a draft. When caulking either the exterior or the interior of the windows, remember to move slow enough with the tube or caulking gun to fill in all the gaps completely. Always clean out the old caulking before adding new.

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ENERGY SAVING TAX CREDITS

Home improvement projects that included adding insulation or replacing windows, water heaters or certain high efficiency heating and cooling equipment, completed in 2007, could be eligible for the Home Improvements Federal Tax Credit. The tax credit, a max of $500, was offered for both 2006 and 2007. To be eligible in 2007, projects had to be completed by December 31, 2007. Homeowners have until April 15, 2008 to claim the credit for 2007. Improvements are restricted to a primary residence. For more information, go to http://www.irs.gov/newsroom/article/0,,id=154657,00.html or request IRS Notice 2006-26.

A $2,000 tax credit for building a new energy efficient home exists through December 31, 2008, but it is restricted to “eligible contractors.” According to EnergyStar.gov, home builders who qualify as eligible contractors can receive the $2,000 tax credit for a new energy efficient home that achieves certain energy savings over the 2004 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) and supplements. The energy savings must be certified by an energy rater. Manufactured home builders are eligible for a $1,000 tax credit for similar efforts.

Contact your state energy office or local utilities for more information.

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WINDOWS

Window Installation

Windows

Windows in a commercial or residential property can be important for aesthetics, safety and energy efficiency. The location, type, size and number of windows affects air movement and access to light in the home.

Understanding the type, function and condition of the windows before you move in can help determine what maintenance might be necessary in the future. A representative number of the windows on both the exterior and the interior of the home will be checked. On the exterior, the inspector checks the overall condition of the windows, including the presence or absence of a sealant-like weather stripping or caulking.

Inside, the inspector will check window operation. The inspector will also look for the presence of screens or storm windows and breaks or cracks in the window panes. If conditions allow, the inspector will assess thermal pane windows for evidence of problems with the seal.

For more information on windows, contact National Property Inspections.

Be Advised

Moisture on Window

Condensation on the inside of window glass or the inside of storm windows can be a minor inconvenience or the signal of a larger ventilation problem. Window condensation is caused when warmer air comes in contact with the cooler window surface. Warmer air is capable of carrying more invisible moisture particles than cooler air. When the warmer air hits the cooler surface, the moisture falls out of the air and sticks to the window. Sometimes, it can even form ice which then melts and streams down the window.

Sharp temperature changes in the fall cause this type of condensation for a few weeks. Condensation is also more prevalent in the morning hours. Condensation that evaporates off the window in a few hours is little cause for concern. Condensation that becomes ice, runs off the window and pools along wooden frames or wood trim can eventually damage the wood surface, causing rot or mildew to grow.

Both older and newer homes can experience severe window condensation problems – older homes because there is too much ventilation to the outside at the windows, and newer homes because there isn’t enough. Balancing moisture levels inside the home is the key. To do this, you can limit the sources of moisture inside the home, reduce moisture levels through proper ventilation or dehumidification or raise surface temperatures.

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Christmas lights are a serious fire hazard if used improperly

The idea for using electric lights to decorate Christmas trees has been around since at least 1882. That’s when Thomas Edison’s assistant, Edward Johnson, proposed the concept. Today, many people use their energy dollars to light up their indoor and outdoor trees, their houses, bushes and yards.

Producing the best display on the block means not only being the brightest, but the safest. Although a safer idea than candlelight, electric holiday lights remain a serious fire hazard if used improperly. To protect your family and neighbors, make sure to purchase lights rated by a reputable laboratory for indoor or outdoor use.

When hanging exterior lights, use hooks with dull edges or insulated holders, never tacks or nails. This will avoid puncturing the wire’s insulation.

Never shut doors or windows on holiday lights or extension cords, and make sure all exterior lights are plugged into an approved GFCI circuit.

Water and electricity never mix. If a ladder is required for outdoor lighting, practice ladder safety and avoid areas near power lines. Keep lights and connections out of snow or standing water.

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